URUGUAY SOJOURNS

Sunlight and leaves. photo © Lorraine Caputo

Durazno, Uruguay

º

In the goldening late afternoon sun, screeching green loros fly from tree to eucalyptus tree. A boy rides a white horse bareback down a dirt street.

Now cricket song swells in the rose-brushed twilight reflected upon the steady river. There chiquilines (children), skins sun-toasted, still play in the waters.

•  

The near-full moon whitens the dense brush. Frogs have joined that grillo chorus.

•  

In the midst of this starry night, I hear the sputtering hum, the wheezing horn, the distant rumble of freight trains crossing the half-mile-long bridge, rusted trusses vibrating & wood ties clunking … coming nearer … I struggle against surfacing from dreams to see the passing chains of cars.

•  

I awaken amid the shreds of last night’s dreams.

•  

Fuchsia-mango sun rises above timbered plains, above the river. A garza negra glides low, landing upon its rippled surface. The rattle of harness & cart, the splash of water as a man reins his horse across to the other shore.

•  

I enter this shallow río, pebbles crunching beneath my feet & sink into its coolness on a summer day. & I release myself, floating downstream, allowing it to take me wherever it be …

… past the sandbar beach, beneath the shade of trees overhanging this swift current …

•  

The clouds had gathered steel-blue all afternoon. Then the wind, the far-off thunder, the wind … I tie down the tarp just as the first large drops fall & seek refuge, the sides of my tent bowing, rain pelting overhead. I hear the distant rumble of the seven-thirty commuter crossing that bridge, nearing our camp, thundering over steel & wood.

•  

The wind has silenced, the thunder now far off to the east. Leaves still shed pooled rain. A hummingbird darts about a eucalyptus, the mosquitos return. & the dusk song of loros begins. Down on a sandbar, a dog & its children stroll, leaving prints behind.

•  

I wander down to the river’s edge where swimming is forbidden, stepping through the high wet grass. & there at the foot of one bridge legging is a fortification from some war or another, its concrete walls blackened & tilted with the years, gunsights staring blindly across to the other bank.

•  

The rumble, vibration, clunk of the nine-fifteen. Lightning bugs sketch dashes on this eventide silenced by the cricket serenade. Someone sings along to his radio. Flames leap from parillas, sparks climbing into the dark. Families huddle downwind from smoke fires scented with grass & eucalyptus, shredded sycamore bark curling. & to the southwest, lightning sketches dashes across the sky.

•  

Full moon veiled by gauzy clouds. Still the grillos trill & a sudden chuckle of a bird. The quiet river reflects the night.

•  

I awaken before dawn to break camp. Some have already left on that first train to the city, wheezing horn, slow rumble, before crossing the bridge. Roosters crow in the village, a few crickets yet rasp. & morning twilight becomes streaked golden-orange & magenta through broken clouds.

As the day brightens, bird ballads echo among the trees.

Bit by bit, my knapsack Rocinante is packed & tied down. A man passes from site to site, bell whispering, pushing a blue motorbike. He offers me homemade sausage & cheese. I stow my purchase before heading out to another town swathed in the clouds of this aging morn.

º

º

published in:

Invisible City (Spring 2023)

FRESH FRUIT JAM

A breakfast buffet, with fresh golden berry jam (left of plate). photo © Lorraine Caputo

Sometimes you just want a special touch of home with your breakfast – perhaps a bit of jam on your bread.

But in Latin America, store-bought jams (mermelada) can be expensive and super-loaded with sugars, artificial sweeteners, chemical preservatives and who knows what else. Plus they can be expensive for budget travelers – or a pain for backpackers to carry in their noble rucksacks.

I‘m going to let you in on a secret – jams are very easy and quick to make. For this Fresh Fruit Jam, you only need three or four ingredients – fruit, water, sugar and optional spice – and about 15 minutes of time.

Homemade mermelada makes a solo or group desayuno a more pleasant event. This recipe is so facilito (easy) that you’ll impress your hostel or campground mates with your sweet creation.

º

So – What Fruit Strikes Your Fancy?

You can use just about any type of fruit to make this Fresh Fruit Jam. But the preparation of the fruit will depend on what you choose. First, wash the fruit, then:

blueberry (arándano) – leave whole

blackberry (mora) – leave whole

strawberry (fresa, frutilla) – take off stem and slice lengthwise in half (or if large, in quarters)

golden berry (uvilla, uchuva) – cut in half

grape (uva) – slice lengthwise in half (or if large, in quarters)

º

peach (durazno, melocotón) – cut into small pieces; discard the stone (pit)

apricot (damasco, chabacano, albaricoque) – cut into small pieces; discard the stone (pit)

plum (ciruela; in Ecuador, claudia) – cut into small pieces; discard the stone (pit)

apple (manzana)  – peel and core apple; cut into small pieces

pear (pera) – peel and core apple; cut into small pieces

º

mango – peel fruit and cut meat into small pieces; discard the seed

pineapple (piña, ananá) – peel and core, and remove the eyes; cut into small cubes

guava (guayaba) – peel; cut into small pieces

          

Clockwise from top: star anise, ginger, cloves, cinnamon, allspice, cardamom. photo © Lorraine Caputo

Adding a Bit of Spice

You may choose a spice – or a combination – according to your tastes. I prefer to use whole spices, though in a pinch you may use powdered ones.

Some of the most common ones you may add are:

cinnamon (canela) – available in sticks; use two to three small pieces

ginger (gengibre; in Peru, kión) – peel; mince this very finely before adding to the fruit

allspice (pimento dulce, pimiento de Jamiaca, pimienta inglesa); use two seeds

cloves (clavo de olor) – use no more than one seed, as the taste is quite strong

cardamom (cardamomo) – use two pods

star anise (anís estrellado) – use one star

Be sure to count how many pieces you put into the fruit, to make sure you remove all before serving the jam!

º

Creative Combos

These are some of my favorite fruit and spice combos:

apple with cinnamon

pear + pineapple with ginger

golden berry with cinnamon + allspice

peach with cinnamon + allspice + cardamom

plum with cinnamon + allspice

blueberry with cinnamon + allspice

Personally, I prefer my strawberries to do a solo act.

If you so fancy, you can even mix fruits. One of my favorite combos is pear-pineapple with a touch of ginger and allspice, a jam that brings back the smells, the tastes of my Grandma’s kitchen.

So – let’s hit the stove. Start the jam first and let it be cooking while you prepare a fruit salad, toast the bread and fix the eggs. By the time you finish preparing your breakfast, the mermelada will be ready!

º

FRESH FRUIT JAM

Estimated cooking time: 10-20 minutes

For: Vegans, Vegetarians, Omnivores

 

1cup of fresh fruit

spices of choice

water

1 – 2 tablespoons brown sugar (azúcar moreno) or raw sugar (panela)

 

photo © Lorraine Caputo

In a small, heavy saucepan, place the fruit and spices. Cover with water. Cook over medium-high heat until fruit is soft.

º

photo © Lorraine Caputo

When the fruit is soft, smash it with a potato masher or fork. Add the sugar. Cook the mixture until it is the consistency of jam.

º

photo © Lorraine Caputo

If you used whole spices, remove those from the jam.

º

Leftover jam can be stored in a closed container for up to a week.

º

Tips:

• If you have less than a cup of fruit, you can still make a little bit of this Fresh Fruit Jam for your toast. Just decrease the sugar and spice accordingly.
• When preparing the fruit, cut off any damaged or soft spots.
• A heavy pot will prevent burning of the jam.
• It’s preferable to use a wooden spoon, instead of a metal one, to stir the jam.
• The cooking time will depend on whether you double the recipe (doubling will double the cooking time) and the type of fruit.
• If you use ground (powdered) spices in place of whole ones, add only a pinch of each.
• The amount of sugar you add will depend on personal taste and the fruit’s sweetness.
• Use granulated brown sugar (azúcar moreno) or raw sugar (panela). Panela has more vitamins and minerals than brown sugar
• After adding the sugar, stir the mixture frequently to prevent burning and so the liquid evaporates quicker.
• Don’t forget to count how many pieces of spices you put into the fruit, to make sure you remove all before serving the jam.
• Flavors will concentrate and the mixture will become firmer once the jam cools.
• Many of these jams also make a wonderful topping for chicken or pork.

º

¡Buen Provecho!

---

---

To help you get around the kitchen while you’re on the road, check these articles – exclusively at Latin America Wanderer!

NAVIGATING THE KITCHEN – A Bilingual Guide to Kitchen Gear

IN THE KITCHEN : A Bilingual Glossary to Ingredients

THE KNAPSACK PANTRY

 

THE WELSH HEARTLAND OF ARGENTINA’S PATAGONIA

The Welsh flag flying over Trelew. photo © Lorraine Caputo

Y mae Patagonia yn annwyl i mi,

Gwlad newydd y Cymry mwyneiddlon yw hi;

Anadlu gwir ryddid a gawn yn y wlad,

O gyrhaedd gormesiaeth a brad:

Cytgan:

Gwlad, gwlad, pleidiol wyf i’m gwlad,

Tra haul y nen uwchben ein ,

O! bydded i’r Wladfa barhau.

– – – – –

Patagonia is dear to me,

The new land of the noble Welsh people;

True freedom we breathe in our new country,

Far from the reach of oppression and betrayal:

Chorus:

Nation, Nation, I am faithful to my Nation.

While the sun rises above the land,

Oh! may the Settlement continue.

– Gwlad Newydd y Cymry (“The New Country of the Welsh”)

After six centuries of English occupation, a group of Welsh refugees left their birthland and journeyed to the Argentine Patagonia. They were yearning for cultural and economic freedom. Two months of sailing, four deaths, two births and one wedding later, over 160 passengers on the Mimosa landed on these desolate shores on 28 July 1865, in the midst of winter.

And these Welsh immigrants would accomplish what no other European previously could: They established permanent colonies in the wild Patagonia.

In Welsh, these Patagonian settlements are called Y Wladfa (The Colony) or Wladychfa Gymreig (The Welsh Settlement). Their isolation from the British Isles helped the Welsh to preserve their customs, language and literary traditions. You can still find hand-carved love spoons, and witness the bardic traditions of the Gorsedd and Eisteddfod. In the many of the villages these Celts established, tea houses continue to present the traditional afternoon repast.

The caves where the Welsh first lived upon arriving at Punta Cuevas, Puerto Madryn. photo © Lorraine Caputo

A Short History of the Welsh Settlements

For the first year, the settlers lived in caves they had dug into the soft-stone shoreline of a place they called Porth Madryn (Puerto Madryn). Later they migrated to the Chubut River Valley where fresh water was more plentiful. More refugees came, this time from the U.S., bringing essential agricultural skills. Within several decades, Welsh villages stretched from Puerto Madryn and Rawson along the Atlantic seaboard to Esquel and Trevelín in the Andes. A railroad took international award-winning wheat to ports from where it was shipped around the world.

Those Welsh settlers lived peaceably with the local Aónikenk (Tehuelche) indigenous nation. Unfortunately, they unsuccessfully protected them from General Roca’s Campaña del Desierto (1879-1884), which sought to erase all traces of the native nations from Argentina.

Welsh life on these Patagonian plains is recounted in the Welsh-language book Dringo’r Andes (1904) by Eluned Morgan, daughter of Lewis Jones, one of the founders of the Welsh settlement.

Welsh language and culture faced many challenges in the 20^th century. During the 1930s, the Argentine government instituted restrictions on the speaking of foreign languages, thus relegating Welsh to the homes. In 1949, then-president Juan Perón declared Chubut Province to be unsuitable for wheat cultivation, which lobbed a blow to the region’s main export. The military dictatorship (1976-1982) banned people from giving Welsh names to their children.

Since 1997, the Welsh Language Project has helped to revive and fortify the language in the Patagonia. Welsh is now taught in many primary schools in the region, and there are bilingual (Welsh-Spanish) schools in Trelew, Esquel and Trevelín. Today, people who speak the tongue as their first language number between 5,000 and 12,000; and as a second language, as many as 25,000. Descendants of the original Welsh settlers are about 50,000.

Traditional Welsh dancing. photo © Lorraine Caputo

Celebrations in the Welsh Heartland

Welsh Patagonia has several important celebrations tied to its culture and history. These are perfect opportunities to see traditional dances, hear age-old music and partake of a Welsh tea.

One prominent feast day falls on 1 March, when Saint David (Dewi Sant / San David), the patron saint of the Welsh, is fêted.

On 28 July, the big festival is the Fiesta del Desembarco (Gwyl Glaniad), marking the anniversary of the Welsh arrival in the Patagonia. If you happen to be in Argentina’s Welsh Heartland at this time, be sure to stop by a local chapel (capilla) and celebrate with a traditional Welsh tea.

Throughout the year occur Eisteddfod bardic competitions in the different towns.

The Gorsedd circle in Gaiman. photo © Lorraine Caputo

The Bardic Tradition

Deriving from the word eistedd (to sit), the Eisteddfod is an ancient custom among Welsh bards that dates back to the 12th century when Lord Rhys hosted the first event at his castle in Cardigan. Poets and musicians competed to win a seat at Lord Rhys’ table. Now the grand prize is a handcrafted chair. The tradition faded over the centuries until it was revived in 1792.

The Eisteddfod was one tradition the Welsh immigrants brought to Patagonia. The first event was celebrated on Christmas Day of 1865. In the early years of the colony, open-air competitions were held. The first hand-carved seat was awarded in 1880. Modern events include not only poetry and music (in Welsh and now also in Spanish), but also dance, crafts and other arts. Judges come from the Patagonia and from Wales.

Many Patagonian Welsh communities have their own Eisteddfod. Trevelín’s is the first weekend of May and Puerto Madryn’s is the first weekend of October. The Eisteddfod de la Juventud (Youth Eisteddfod), held the second and third weekends of September, happens in Gaiman.

The provincial-level competition’s opening ceremony, the Gorsedd, is held in Gaiman the Thursday before the Eisteddfod de Chubut. The Chubut Eisteddfod occurs in Trelew in October.

More information about the Patagonian events, contact the Asociación Eisteddfod del Chubut.

Gwesty Plas y Coed, one of Gaiman’s tea house B&Bs. photo © Lorraine Caputo

Lodging in the Welsh Heartland of the Argentine Patagonia

Hotels are common throughout the Welsh Heartland. If you are traveling in a group, check out cabañas (cabins) or seasonally let apartments (departamento de alquiler temporario) for a more economical choice.

Budget travelers will find camping in every town. Hostels (hostal, albergue) are available in Puerto Madryn, Trelew, Esquel and Trevelín. Residenciales and hospedajes (both names for basic inns) are another inexpensive option.

If you would like to immerse yourself in the region’s traditions, then stay in a Welsh bed and breakfast (hostería) in Gaimán or Trevelín.

In the low season (particularly winter), some hotels, hostels and campgrounds close. In summer, demand for any kind of lodging is high; reservations are advisable. During the high seasons (summer and winter), prices increase.

Culinary Delights in Argentina’s Welsh Heartland

Welsh dishes such as shepherd’s pie (a meat and vegetable pie topped with mashed potatoes and baked), cawl (beef or mutton stew) and Welsh rarebit (toast topped with a cheese-beer sauce) are available at more traditional restaurants. Roast lamb (asado de cordero) is served with mint sauce.

The region’s most famous gastronomic offering is the Welsh tea. Accompanying the pot of tea is a wide variety of homemade goods. Savory dishes include fresh bread, butter, cheese and sandwiches. For the sweet tooth are an assortment of cakes and scones, marmalade and the famous cacen ddu (torta negra galesa / Welsh black cake). Teahouses typically serve 3-8 p.m. At many you can choose to partake of only savory dishes or only sweet. Some charge less for the second person. The best places to sit down to a Welsh tea are Gaiman and Trevelín.

Magellanic penguin at Punta Tombo. According to some linguists, the word “penguin” comes from the Welsh pen gwyn, meaning “white head.” photo © Lorraine Caputo

The Welsh Settlements

Argentina’s Patagonian Welsh settlements are all in Chubut Province. The most visited are along Ruta 3, the highway that hugs the South Atlantic seaboard. This is where the history of Y Wladfa begins: Puerto Madryn, Rawson, Trelew, Gaiman, Dolavon and 28 de Julio. Two other important towns, Esquel and Trevelín, lie far to the west, at the base of the Andes. The furthest south village founded by the Welsh is Sarmiento.

Not only do all of these destinations have Welsh roots, but they also offer a host of other things to see and do. The region has stunning nature reserves where you can observe wildlife. Offshore, southern right whales, dolphins and other sea mammals pass on their annual migrations. These Patagonian plains are dotted with petrified forests, fossilized dinosaurs and archaeological sites.

Inside the Museo del Desembarco, Punta Cueva. photo © Lorraine Caputo

Puerto Madryn

(Porth Madryn)

Puerto Madryn lies on the west coast of Golfo Nuevo, south of the Valdez Peninsula. This was the original Welsh settlement in Argentina’s Patagonia. On the site of the caves where the immigrants first lived is the Museo del Desembarco. Another nod to Madryn’s Celtic roots is a monument to the Welsh colonists on the city’s waterfront (Avenida Julio Argentino Roca and Manuel Belgrano).

The city has many other museums, from the region’s history to art. Two excellent ones teach specifically about the Patagonia’s natural environments, both on land and in the ocean: Museo Oceonográfico y de Ciencias Naturales and Ecocentro Pampa Azul.

Puerto Madryn is a perfect home base for wildlife observation safaris. A cruise between June and December will allow you to see migrating southern right whales (Eubalaena australis). All-day tours depart for Área Natural Protegida Península Valdés where there are significant populations of southern elephant seal (Mirounga leonina), South American sea lion (Otaria flavescens); and Magellanic penguins (Spheniscus magellanicus).

The seas here also welcome humans to come and play. You can practice wide variety of watersports, including scuba diving, wind and kitesurfing, and kayaking.

Puerto Madryn has a full calendar of festivities throughout the year. Semana Santa (moveable feast: March / April) features a Vía Crucis Submarino (Underwater Stations of the Cross). June marks the beginning of whale watching season. 28 July, of course, is a big party, with the Fiesta de Desembarco celebrating the Welsh arrival to the Patagonia and the city’s birthday. Gastronomy lovers should come in November for the Fiesta Nacional del Cordero (National Lamb Festival). December is time for the Fiesta Nacional del Buceo (National Scuba Diving Festival).

Capilla Moriah in Trelew. Many of the original Welsh settlers are buried here. photo © Lorraine Caputo

Trelew

(Tre Lew / Lewis’ Town)

– 70 kilometers south of Puerto Madryn

Trelew was founded in 1884 as the main hub of the Central of Chubut Railway. Today, this town with a strong Welsh identity is the hub for visiting other villages in the Welsh Heartland: Rawson, Gaiman, Dolavan and 28 de Julio.

Several Welsh churches still exist in Trelew, among them are Drofa Dulog, Moriah and Tabernacl. Museo Pueblo de Luis, located in the former train station, has displays about the indigenous Tehuelche nation and the Welsh settlers.

Other museums of interest are Museo Muncipal de Artes Visuales, covering the arts, and Centro Cultural por la Memoria, which teaches about the 1972 massacre and human rights. Museo Paleontológico Egidio Feruglio, one of Argentina’s finest museums, showcases the region’s many species of dinosaurs.

To check out modern-day species of the region, go to Área Natural Protegida Punta Tombo (123 kilometers southeast of Trelew). This fantastic excursion goes to the largest Magellanic penguin colony outside of Antarctica. The best time to go is during mating and nesting season, between September and April. Closer to town is Reserva Natural Municipal Laguna Cacique Chiquichano, a perfect place for observing over 100 species of birds, including flamingos.

Trelew’s Welsh community celebrates the arrival of their first colonizers on 28 July. Capilla Moriah and other regional chapels serve traditional tea on that day. The Eisteddfod, the two-day annual festival celebrating Welsh culture and art, is in mid-October. The Fiesta Provincial de Pingüino welcomes the spring arrival of penguins (September). Trelew’s birthday party is 20 October.

Plaza Rawson. photo © Lorraine Caputo

Rawson

(Tre Rawson / Rawson’s Village)

– 82 kilometers south of Puerto Madryn

Rawson was the second village the Welsh settlers established (1865) as they moved southward in search of fresh water. It is the capital of Chubut Province. The city lies seven kilometers from the mouth of the Río Chubut, where Puerto Rawson is. Also on the coast is Playa Unión (5 kilometers from Rawson), a great place to watch Commerson’s dolphins (tonina overa, Cephalorhynchus commersonii); this beach town has excellent camping.

The Welsh chapel, Ricardo Berwyn, was built in 1881. The city has few museums. The most noteworthy is the Museo Regional Salesiano, which covers the human and natural history of the region.

Rawson holds several festivals: Fiesta Nacional del Atlántico Sur (January), Fiesta Nacional de los Pescadores and the Fiesta del Río (February), among others. Its founding day is 15 September.

Ty Te Caerdydd, where Princess Diana had her Welsh tea in Gaiman. photo © Lorraine Caputo

Gaiman

(Aónikenk-Tehuelche word meaning whetstone)

– 17 kilometers west of Trelew

Of all the Welsh villages in the Chubut River Valley, Gaiman has one of the strongest cultural identities. Its restaurants serve delectable Welsh teas in any season. This village is the venue for the Youth Eisteddfod in September and the Gorsedd in October. Gaiman’s main Welsh churches are Bethel, Vieja Bethel and Ebenezer. There are others nearby. Museo Primera Casa de Gaiman (Calle Eugenio Tello and Juan C. Evans) and Museo Histórico Regional (Calle Sarmiento and 28 de Julio) both reveal aspects of early Welsh life in the Patagonia. Another typical Welsh house-cum-museum is Casa del Poeta, dedicated to poet-journalist Evan Thomas (Avenida Almirante Brown 328).

But not everything is about Wales in Gaiman. Parque Paleontológico Bryn Gwyn (8 kilometers south) is an excellent place to see Patagonian fossils still in their excavation sites. The park has several hiking trails and guided tours.

Besides the Gorsedd and Eisteddfod festivities, Gaiman also hosts the Fiesta del Citron (April). The town celebrates its founding day throughout the month of August.

The canals of Dolavon. photo © Lorraine Caputo

Dolavon

(Dôl Afon / River Meadow)

– 36 kilometers west of Trelew

Dolavon was the center of Welsh Patagonia wheat production. Canals through the town once channeled water to fields and grist mill. The mill, Molino Harinero, is now a museum and restaurant (Calle Maipú 61). Dolavon’s surviving Welsh church is Carmel.

Dolavon is the venue for the province’s largest Carnaval celebration (moveable feast: February / March)

º

28 de Julio

– 51 kilometers west of Trelew

28 de Julio is one of the youngest Welsh settlements and home to only about 100 families dedicated to farming. The main attractions are the Welsh Bethel Chapel and the Chacra Histórico, which showcases antique farm implements. The first week of each month is the Feria de Productores, featuring the area’s products.

The mountains surrounding Esquel. photo © Lorraine Caputo

Esquel

(Tehuelche: Esgel Kaik / fields of thistles or quagmire)

– 602 kilometers west of Trelew

Esquel, in western Argentina at the foot of the Andes mountains, has so many attractions luring travelers to it that it is hard to believe it also has Welsh roots! This town does have a bilingual school – and the obligatory Welsh church, Capilla Salem (built in 1915).

Most travelers come here for the fantastic outdoor activities. There is trekking in Parque Nacional Los Alerces and Parque Nacional Lago Puelo. Or you can set off to explore ancient volcanoes or glaciers’ ice tunnels, or run the white waters of the local rivers. Esquel is also a popular winter destinations, thanks to its excellent ski facilities at La Hoya.

This town’s world-wide fame, though, is the Old Patagonian Express (known locally as el Viejo Expreso Patagónico or La Trochita), a steam train that makes its home here. It offers excursions year-round. Most runs go round trip to Nahuel Pan, a Tehuelche-Mapuche hamlet with the Museo de Culturas Originarias Patagónicas dedicated to the indigenous cultures of this region.

Even though it doesn’t have an official date of it being founded, Esquel celebrates its birthday 25 February.

º

Trevelín

(Trefelin  / Mill Town)

– 26 kilometers southwest of Esquel / 45 kilometers east of Paso Futaleufú, the border crossing into Chile

This little town still has a strong Welsh character, with traditional tea houses and B&Bs to Bethel Chapel (built 1897). Molino Harinero Andes houses the local history museum. Museo Cartref Taid (Grandfather’s Home) recounts the region’s Welsh history. Yet another Welsh-history museum is Museo Molino Nant Fach (20 kilometers southwest of Trevelín). How deep is this town’s cultural identity? There is even a fire-breathing Welsh Dragon perched atop the Tourism Office (Rotonda 28 de Julio)!

Trevelín, though, isn’t just Welsh-Galés-Cymraeg. In spring, the countryside is rainbow-painted by tulip fields. During the summer months, you can follow the Wine Route through the countryside or the Mapuche-Tehuelche ancestral trails at Lago Rosario, horseback ride through the Sierra Colorada, or raft the Río Corcovado. In winter, you can cross country ski or snowshoe in Parque Nacional Los Alerces.

Handmade flag. Museo Regional Desiderio Torres. Sarmiento, Argentina. photo © Lorraine Caputo

Sarmiento

– 430 kilometers southeast of Esquel / 480 kilometers south-southwest of Trelew

Sarmiento was founded by a joint group of Welsh and Italian immigrants – and so has a different ambience than other the other Welsh towns in Argentina’s Patagonia. It is the youngest of the Welsh settlements (founded in 1897) and the southernmost. You can learn more about the indigenous and colony history at Museo Regional Desiderio Torres (Calle 20 de Junio 45).

What makes little-visited Sarmiento such an exciting destinations is its prehistoric manifestations. Right in town is Parque Temático Paleontológico Valle de los Gigantes which features life-size representations of all the dinosaur species found in the area. Monumento Natural Provincial Bosque Petrificado Sarmiento (38 kilometers southeast of Sarmiento) is a 1,880-hectare petrified forest with three hiking trails. Out towards the Andean foothills is Alero de Manos Pintadas, a rock canvas of painted hands (60 kilometers west).

The second weekend of February is the Festival Interprovincial de Doma y Folklore, featuring rodeo events, concerts and artisan displays. Festival de Sarmiento, a celebration of the town’s anniversary, occurs 21 June.

THREE MEXICAN SALSAS

Guacamole (center) with two of our Mexican salsas: salsa fresca (left) and pico de gallo (right). photo © Lorraine Caputo

º

Estimated preparation time: 5 to 15 minutes

For: vegans, vegetarians, omnivores

º

Okay – perhaps I should start off this edition of the Recipe Corner by saying, “Three Mexican-Style Salsas.” A few factors come into play in this clarification.

One is that cilantro (culantro in some countries – called Chinese parsley or coriander in English: Coriandrum satiuum), is a common ingredient in many Mexican dishes and sauces (salsas). But some people find cilantro to be objective (It tastes like soap!) – and, well, in my humble opinion, you can omit it. Also, even though it is a common herb in Latin American cuisine, you might find it difficult to find fresh cilantro.

º

Chiles – Chili Peppers

The other hindrance in proclaiming my salsa recipes as “authentically Mexican” is the issue of chili peppers. Mexico is renowned for the great variety of hot peppers used in its dishes: jalapeño, serrano, poblano and so many others – with distinct names for the dried and smoked versions of each one of these! In Mexico, jalapeño and serrano peppers are the most commonly used in sauces – but in many parts of Latin America, these specific varieties are not available. You will have to rely on whatever is available – but be cautious about how much you use, as they might be much spicier than the “humble” jalapeño or serrano.

Nonetheless, some folks don’t like their food very spicy or are sensitive to chili peppers. If you are one of these folk, you don’t have to be left out of enjoying these delicious sauces. You can feel free to omit the spicy peppers or use a substitute.

---

A Few Other Quick Spicy Notes

• In Mexico and Central America, spicy peppers (Capsicum spp.) are called chile. In most of South America, they are ají.
• In Spanish, “hot” in the sense of “spicy” is not caliente – it is picante.
• If you are using fresh chili peppers, be sure to remove the seeds before adding them to the recipe. (The seeds are really spicy!)
• Take care when handling fresh chili peppers. Be sure to wash your hands, knife and other items well afterwards – and be careful touching your eyes and other sensitive areas.
• If fresh chili peppers are not available or you opt not to use them, then use sweet (bell or green) pepper. The name for sweet peppers vary throughout the Americas: pimiento, pimentón (Venezuela, Colombia, Ecuador), morrón (Argentina, Uruguay). Note: Pimienta is black pepper (Piper nigrum).

• As a last result, chili powder can be used in some of these sauces. (But note – in some regions of Latin America, decent chili powder can be difficult to obtain!)
• Are you a chili fiend? Then drop by the Museo Mexicano del Chile in San Luís Potosí, Mexico!

---

º

Three Mexican Salsas

No matter if you are preparing fajitas, tacos, burritos or quesadillas, special sauces accent their flavors, giving them a Mexican touch. These salsas are also great atop fried potatoes or eggs. And to go along with your repast, don’t forget the guacamole!

My favorite three Mexican salsas are pico de gallo, salsa fresca, and taco sauce. All are easy and quick to prepare – and all have three basic ingredients: tomato, onion, and pepper.

¡Buen provecho!

The three basic ingredients of these Mexican salsas: pepper, tomato, onion – and garlic. photo © Lorraine Caputo

Pico de gallo

Serve as one of the fillings of your fajita or burrito, or on the side.

1 medium tomato

½ of an onion

1 jalapeño pepper – or if not available, 1 green pepper

1 small handful of cilantro, finely chopped – optional

Chop the tomato, onion and green pepper into small cubes. Add the cilantro and mix together.

º

Salsa Fresca

Even without chili pepper, this “fresh sauce” is remarkably spicy – thanks to the raw onion and garlic.

3 medium tomatoes

1 small onion

1 chili pepper or 1 medium green pepper

1-2 cloves of garlic, peeled

1 teaspoon salt

Roughly cut the tomatoes, onion and pepper into large chunks. Places into a blender (licuador), and add the rest of the ingredients. Blend until all is liquefied.

Note: The sauce will appear pink-colored due to the amount of air in the mixture. Once it rests for a while, it will turn red.

Taco sauce. photo © Lorraine Caputo

Taco Sauce

This is a cooked sauce that is perfect for serving alongside tacos – or for topping fajitas or burritos. It may be served hot or cold.

3 medium tomatoes

1 small onion

1 medium green pepper

1-2 cloves of garlic, peeled and minced

1 teaspoon salt

chili powder to taste (about 1 teaspoon)

Roughly cut the tomatoes, onion and pepper into medium-sized chunks.

Place all the ingredients in a medium saucepan. Add about 1 cup of water. Cook over low heat until the vegetables are soft and the liquid is almost all gone, about 10 minutes.

º

Fried potatoes, cheddar cheese and salsa fresca. photo © Lorraine Caputo

Black bean and cheese burrito, topped with salsa fresca. photo © Lorraine Caputo

Sunny-side-up egg with salsa fresca. photo © Lorraine Caputo

10 FREE THINGS TO DO FOR BUDGET TRAVELERS

FREE!!!

This is every shoestring traveler’s favorite word.

And let us shout it loud from the rooftops of the great Latin American cities: Free! Free!! Indeed, budget travelers, you’ll find plenty of FREE things to check out in the big cities and in small towns. From architecture to culture, you can pack your days with tons of activities and sites. All totally GRATIS, except perhaps for the occasional trolley or bus fare.

º

Traveling within One’s Budget

With much of one’s daily budget going for the necessities of hostel, food and transportation, it can be hard to find a way to enjoy the sights. Many have to choose: Iguazú Falls or hiking the Inca Trail? Rafting on Chile’s Futaleufú or scuba diving lessons in the Bay Islands?

While some travelers journeying to the Americas have enough savings to cover many of these activities and more, those on a budget can boast about being able to see this world through a different lens.

Whether you are chilling in small towns or checking out the sounds of Latin America’s cities, there are plenty of places to visit, things to do that don’t cost a centavito. Here are a few ideas of how you can learn about the culture and life of where you go – all for FREE!

Casa de la Literatura Peruana. Lima, Peru. photo © Lorraine Caputo

1. Cultural Centers

Most major Latin American cities have at least one centro cultural or public library that hosts free exhibits, concerts, films, theater and other events. Keep an eye out for art openings (inauguración), an assured visual and gastronomic treat. (Yes, often hors d’ouvres and drinks are served.) These and literary readings also offer you an opportunity to meet the local artist community.

As well, in many burgs are foreign centers, like France’s Alianza Francesa and Germany’s Instituto Goethe. One of my favorite centers is the Alianza Francesa in Santa Marta, Colombia, which has not only good art shows, but shows great movies every week.

Street theater in Parque de los Fundadores, Villavicencio, Colombia. photo © Lorraine Caputo

2. City Walk-Abouts

Get out and stroll through metropolis canyons and down village cobblestone lanes. This is a wonderful way to take in the local architecture and feel the town’s rhythm. Big cities are the perfect venue for studying the merging of cultures and styles in secular architecture. (Glance up while strolling through Buenos Aires – it is an incredible architectural mosaic!). Big cities and small towns alike have a burgeoning mural movement.

And, of course, public plazas are THE place to people watch (and if you have sixth sense, perhaps even spirit watch). Take time off your walking tour, rest the doggies and have a flavored ice. The vendors will be giving their schticks on whatever product they’re selling, the kids will be chasing soap bubbles catching rainbows from the sun and clowns performing street theater.

The market in Cumbal, Colombia. photo © Lorraine Caputo

3. Markets

The living culture of Latin America’s many nations can be experienced at the markets. These spaces resound with squawking chickens, with the clicks and ssh-sshes of native languages. The morning air is scented with the aromas of hot tortillas and coffee. Guatemalan villages have their weekly mercados, as do many highland Ecuadorean and Peruvian pueblos. Northern Peru’s largest barter market occurs in Yerbabuena every Sunday. Southern Colombia’s indigenous roots are on full display in Cumbal, near Ipiales.

While the politicos are wheeling and dealing in the Palaces, the common folk are doing their trade of daily life out in the markets. Even in large cities the sound of folks haggling prices mixes with the colors and smells of the typical village mercado – only on a mega-scale. Bucaramanga’s four-story-tall Plaza Central is said to be Colombia’s largest public market. For its sheer size, nothing can beat Mexico City’s Mercado de la Merced. The few blocks on the southern edge of this market are dedicated to traditional shamanic necessities. Such traditions aren’t limited to just Mexico, though. On La Paz’ steep streets is the fascinating Witches’ Market.

A steel cathedral designed by Alexandre Gustave Eiffel. Arica, Chile. photo © Lorraine Caputo

4. Churches

The most obvious free attraction is the churches. From white-washed colonial chapels to towering neo-Gothic temples, these monuments are a fascinating window onto the merging of indigenous and Spanish cultures. On the façades of some, native craftsmen slipped symbols from their own religion. Interiors are decorated with naïve wood carvings and elaborate gilded altar screens. In cathedrals are buried the city’s most famous citizens.

Not all, though, are free. Unfortunately, many of Quito’s finest churches charge an entry fee to non-mass attenders, though La Compañía does offer free tours once a month.

In general, churches forbid tourist visits during mass and the taking of photographs. Also be aware that parts of Latin America are yet very conservative about church attire: no shorts, tank tops or minis. In small towns, women commonly cover their heads when entering a holy place. And men, please take the ball cap off.

Catholics aren’t the only ones to open their spectacular spaces. In Panama City is the brilliantly white Bahai’i temple, a dome perched atop Montaña del Dulce Canto. Mosques in Maicao, Colombia, and Tacna, Peru, also welcome visitors.

The Centro de Interpretación in Mercedes covers the natural and human history of Argentina’s Corrientes Province. photo © Lorraine Caputo

5. Museums

In villages and cities alike, you’ll find museums. True, some charge an entry fee, but many are free (or ask for a donation).

The range of topics is impressive. History buffs can spend hours in museos that focus on history – whether archaeology, indigenous anthropology, immigration or local events. Natural history, with taxidermied regional fauna, are wonderful places to learn about the environment you’ll encounter in national parks and reserves. Other museums exhibit ancient, colonial and / or modern art – or discuss other cultural expressions, like music.

Not all museums, though, are topic-specific. Many small local museums have a mind-boggling mish-mash of artifacts showcasing the village’s many facets.

Quito’s Little-known San Diego Cemetery has impressive funerary architecture. Quito, Ecuador. photo © Lorraine Caputo

6. Cemeteries

Exquisite architecture and culture isn’t just for the living. Latin American cemeteries are where you’ll find the famous and poor lying side by side. While in Buenos Aires, drop by to see Eva “Evita” Perón Duarte in La Recoleta and tango great Carlos Gardel in La Chacarita. Santiago de Chile’s Cementerio General hosts most of that nation’s Presidents, Victor Jara and victims of the military dictatorship’s repression. A small fee is charged to enter Havana’s impressive Necrópolis Cristóbal Colón. Here rest writers Alejo Carpentier and Nicolás Guillén, Buena Vista Social Club singer Ibrahim Ferrer, and Cuban Revolutionaries Celia Sánchez and Haydée Santamaría. A free graveyard in this city is San Yu Chun Wa, or the Cementerio General Chino.

Pioneer Fest. Coyhaique, Chile. photo © Lorraine Caputo

7. Festivals

It can fairly be said that on any day, someplace in Latin America will be having some sort of festival. Towns celebrate their founding day with parades, country fairs and other events. Regional virgins and patron saints are fêted on their feast days (and some have processions during the preceding nine-day novena). There are special religious holidays, like Semana Santa (Easter Week) and Day of the Dead when you can see the synchronization of indigenous and Christian traditions.

Check out 365 Days on the Fiesta Continent, which I co-authored, for more festivals you can join in on during your South America sojourning.

La Florida archaeological site. Quito, Ecuador. photo © Lorraine Caputo

8. Ruins

Many ancient civilizations left their mark on Latin America’s landscape. The most famous are the Aztecs of central Mexico, the Maya of Mesoamerica and the Inca of South America. Others, though, left behind temples and pyramids throughout the region.

Whereas Machu Picchu takes a big bite out of the ol’ money belt, Peru has a surprising number of free archaeological sites. Many can be reached on day hikes and often do not require a guide. On the jungle side of the northern Andes are Macro, Ollape and other Chachapoya ruins. Huancabamba is the base for visiting Templo de los Jaguares. And there are many more, too!

Mexico, famous for Teotihuacán and Chichén Itzá, also has numerous lesser-known archaeological sites that are free.

It isn’t all just ruins of ancient cities. There are also geoglyphs (earth drawings like the Nazca Lines and those in the Atacama Desert of northern Chile), petroglyphs (rock drawings) and the magnificent “canvases” of hand prints in the Patagonia (like Cueva de las Manos, south of Perito Moreno, Argentina; and Paredón de las Manos near Villa Cerro Castillo, Chile).

Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. El Chaltén, Argentina. photo © Lorraine Caputo

9. National Parks

Latin American national parks charge high entry fees to foreigners. Some, though, are free. Parque Nacional Puracé in Southern Colombia has waterfalls, hot springs and condors. The north sector of Argentina’s Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, near El Chaltén, is gratis and has a hike for every day of the week. With the exception of Galápagos, all of Ecuador’s national parks are free. Most provincial or state parks all over Latin America are free – such as Caraguatay, where Ernesto Guevara was born, in Argentina’s Misiones Province.

Piedras Coloradas, five kilometers south of Las Grutas, Argentina. photo © Lorraine Caputo

10. Hiking in Nature

Hiking doesn’t have to be limited to national park visits. There are many other places you can hoof out in nature – and that are even more fun when teamed up with some special destination! Be sure to pack a picnic lunch to enjoy along the way.

Getting out to some archaeological sites will entail hiking – especially to ruins in the Chachapoyas region in northern Peru. A great adventure is to take the 16-kilometer ancient stone road from the Yálape ruins near Levanto to Chachapoyas. The camino herradura between Barichara and Guane in Colombia is another pleasant (and easy) stroll. There are many others you can explore in Latin America, like South America’s Qhapaq Ñan.

Another such stone road (complete with petroglyphs) heads from Güicán to the free El Chorrerón hot springs near El Cucuy National Park in eastern Colombia. Cool-water swimming holes, such as Balneario Hurtado near Valledupar (Colombia), can also be walked to.

Another natural destination for a good hike are waterfalls, like those near Baños, Ecuador; Coroico, Bolivia; and Nebaj, Guatemala.

My favorite place for a leisurely walk, though, is the playa. Beaches provide not only free swimming, but also observing sea life in tidal pools, birdwatching and beachcombing. An epic coastal hike is the Circuito Costanero near San Julián in Argentina’s southern Patagonia.

º

º

So, you may not have a lot of money – but much of Latin America’s uniqueness is available for free. The natural beauty and culture richness are often just a walk or cheap bus ride away.

What are your favorite free activities on the road? Please share in the comments below.

And until we next meet – Happy Adventures and Safe Journeys!

---

---

Ready to begin planning your budget itinerary?

Check out my articles on FREE things to do and see in these cities:

Quito, Ecuador

Lima, Peru

Santiago de Chile

Montevideo, Uruguay

TUNA-ZUCCHINI PASTA

Tuna-zucchini pasta – quick, easy and healthy! photo © Lorraine Caputo

º

This Tuna-Zucchini Pasta is another easy and quick dish you can make while you are on the road. You can whip it up in the hostel kitchen, over a campfire or at home.

Some of the ingredients you may already have in your Knapsack Pantry. Just stop into a local shop to pick up the fresh vegies and pasta of your choice. And within 20 minutes you and your friends will be sitting down to a hot, nutritious meal!

º

TUNA-ZUCCHINI PASTA

Estimated cooking time: 20 minutes

For: Carnivores or Pescatarians

Serves: 3 (or 2 really hungry folk)

º

ingredients

200 grams of your favorite pasta

1 can (184 grams) of tuna in oil

2 cloves of garlic, minced finely

1 medium onion, cut into thin strips (plumilla)

1 medium zucchini or calabacín, thinly sliced

1 medium tomato, cut into cubes

pinch of red pepper flakes (optional)

The ingredients for this night’s dinner. photo © Lorraine Caputo

instructions

In large pot, boil water. Add a teaspoon of salt and pasta. Cook pasta until al dente (almost soft, not mushy). Drain and set aside.

In the same pot, drain the oil from the can of tuna. When the oil is hot, add the garlic and sauté until the garlic becomes fragrant. Add the onion and zucchini (calabacín). Sauté until tender. Add tomato, tuna and (optional) red pepper flakes.  Cook another 3 minutes, until the tuna is warmed through and the tomato is soft. Add salt to taste. Add cooked pasta and mix thoroughly.

Serve with a fresh sliced tomatoes or a tossed salad.

¡Buen provecho!

º

Tips:

• Using tuna in oil saves you from having to buy oil separately – or to carry oil in your pack, which can be difficult to keep from spilling over everything else.
• You any use any type of pasta you desire – or that is available (except stuffed pastas).
• If you are cooking for just yourself, then use about 80 grams of pasta, a small onion, a small zucchini (or calabacín), and a small tomato.
• Zucchini is called zuquini, calabacín or zapallito, depending on the country. In some places, like Argentina, calabacín is a small, round zucchini squash.
• Because the canned tuna contains salt, you probably will not need to add additional salt. Before you add any salt, be sure to taste the sauce first.

Recipe Corner : SARDINE PASTA

Pasta con le Sarde – a super-simple and fast dinner. photo © Lorraine Caputo

Sardine Pasta (Pasta con le Sarde) is one of the easiest and quickest dishes you will ever make, whether in the hostel kitchen, over a campfire or at home.

Some of the ingredients you may already have in your Knapsack Pantry. Just stop into a local shop to pick up the fresh vegies and pasta of your choice. And within 20 minutes you and your friends will be sitting down to a hot, nutritious meal!

(And best of all for all you backpackers out there – you won’t have to have YET another meal of sardine sandwiches!)

º

SARDINE PASTA (Pasta con le Sarde)

For: Carnivores / Pescatarians

Serves: 3 (or 2 really hungry folk)

Estimated cooking time: 20 minutes

º

Ingredients

200 grams of your favorite pasta

1 tablespoon of oil

1 medium onion, cut into thin strips (plumilla)

1 medium green bell pepper, cut into thin strips

2 cloves of garlic, minced finely

1 large can of sardines in tomato sauce

pinch of red pepper flakes (optional)

The ingredients ready to be cooked : (clockwise from bottom left) garlic, green pepper, pasta, sardines, onion. photo © Lorraine Caputo

º

Instructions

In large pot, boil water. Add a teaspoon of water and pasta. Cook pasta until al dente (almost soft, not mushy). Drain.

Meanwhile …

In a skillet, heat oil. When hot, add the onion and sauté until almost transparent. Add green pepper and garlic and sauté until veggies are cooked.

Open can of sardines and add to the vegies, with a pinch of red pepper flakes. Smash up the sardines with a fork. Cook for about five minutes.

The sauce is ready! photo © Lorraine Caputo

Add cooked pasta and mix thoroughly.

Serve with a fresh sliced cucumbers or a tossed salad.

¡Buen provecho!

Tips

• You any use any type of pasta you desire – or that is available (except stuffed pastas).
• If you are cooking for just yourself, then use about 80 grams of pasta, a small onion, a small green pepper, and a small can of sardines.
• If you are cooking over a campfire / camp stove or have only one pot, then cook the pasta first and put it to one side. In the same pot fix the sauce, and then mix in the pasta.

THE KNAPSACK PANTRY

My personal Knapsack Pantry. photo © Lorraine Caputo

When you’re traveling on a budget, a Knapsack Pantry can get you through dining emergencies, soothe aches, and add a bit of spice to life on the road.

There may be times when you arrive in a town after a long, grueling bus ride, and discover that all the restaurants and shops are closed. Or perhaps you have a headache or stomach cramps, and an herbal tea can ease your pains. Then there’s that three a.m. bus to catch and you need a quick jolt of caffeine.

And, honestly, there are times when you just yearn for a taste of home – whether it is a Darjeeling or Earl Grey tea … or your favorite bread spread, like peanut butter, marmite or vegemite.

These are the times I am always glad to have my Knapsack Pantry – my emergency stash of foodstuffs that I keep in a drawstring bag (made from an old pant leg!).

Other travelers often comment about the extra pound (half-kilo) I carry in my knapsack – but my Knapsack Pantry has proved to be too handy in so many occasions to discount having it tucked in one corner of my backpack. True, many things can be bought locally – but sometimes I have found myself in situations where having a cache of goods is so helpful, or is not available where I am.

So – what do I consider to be essential supplies and staples to have in my Knapsack Pantry? Let’s take a look at what I pull out of my trusty ol’ road companion, Rocinante.

---

Note:

It is important to keep the items in their original packing, as much as possible. This will help in keeping your pantry staples – like herbs and spices – from being accused by border customs and other officials of being illegal substances.

Also – for countries with strict agricultural customs, like Chile, keep your herb pantry within easy reach so you can show it to custom officials. It is better to be open about the herbs and spices, rather than be heavily fined for “smuggling” prohibited products into the country!

---

THE MOST BASIC ESSENTIAL ITEMS

My ever-present basic dining gear. photo © Lorraine Caputo

During my trips, most times I stay in an hospedaje (inexpensive inn, often family run) or a hostel. In some countries (especially Argentina, Uruguay and Chile), I’ll camp. To save on my budget, I may prepare simple, no-cook meals (like guacamole, sandwiches or a salad). Or, in places like Argentine where carry-out joints (rotisería) are common, I’ll order something and take it back to my digs. At a campground, I might throw something on the parrilla (grill).

But no matter where I’m staying or what I’m eating, I have found a few items to be absolutely indispensable:

• plate / shallow bowl that will allow me to have a soup, if the occasion arises
• spoon
• Swiss army knife (Any kind of multi-tool device will do. This should have not only a blade or two and a can opener, but also a corkscrew! After all, there are wonderful wines to try throughout South America – and wineries to visit!)
• cup (a thermal cup is useful to keep things hot on a cold evening – and/or a metal cup in which you can heat water)

Another item I have found useful – especially in the colder climes of the deep Peruvian mountains, the Patagonia or Tierra del Fuego – is an immersible water heater: You fill your cup with water, put the coil into the water, then plug it in. (The coil must always be immersed in water before plugging it in, else the element will burn out.) Be aware that from Mexico to Ecuador, electricity is 110v; and from Peru south, it is 220v.

In the realm of ingredients, first and foremost in my pack is sugar and salt. Not only are these important for food preparation and enjoyment on the road – but in a pinch, they also create an emergency rehydration mix, replenishing electrolytes (body salts) when I have a bout of diarrhea or high fever:

In 1 liter of clean water (boiled, filtered, treated), add 6 teaspoons of sugar and a half-teaspoon of table salt. Stir until sugar dissolves. Sip every five minutes.

---

BEVERAGES

Across the patio of the cheap hospedaje in Xela (Quetzaltenango, Guatemala), I see a familiar figure flitting about a room, the door open. I cannot believe it! It’s Wild Thang, a friend of several friends. I met him once upon a time or two. What in the devil is he doing down in these-here parts?

I go over and knock on the door. He recognizes me and gives me a weak bear hug.

“You okay, man?”

“Ah, I’ve got a killer headache.”

“Do you need aspirin or some such?”

“Naw, I don’t take that crap.”

“How about a cup of tea? Mint – or perhaps chamomile?”

He looks at me, his hazel eyes wide open. “You got some?”

“Sure. Meet me in the back patio.”

I am stoking the fire burning in that second patio when he arrives. I have my two cups out, one heating water for our tea. (I always carry two cups – one to heat water, and another to share with a fellow/sister traveler.)

There are times when we kick back with other travelers around the common table or a campfire, to share a drink and tales.

Or perhaps there’s a 3 a.m. bus to catch, and a jolt of caffeine is in order … or after a grueling all-day ride, you just need something to relax you …

For me – all of these are times when I dip into my stash. Another occasion is when I just want to sequester myself away and delve into my writing … and having something to drink helps to keep me going.

These are some of the Caffeinated Goodies you might want to have in your stash. photo © Lorraine Caputo

Caffeinated Goodies

What caffeinated goods you have on hand depends on your taste. You can restock with local products when you run low – and try some of the regional specialties like yerba mate (which is available as loose herb – or in bags, called yerba cocida).

My Knapsack Pantry always includes:

• Instant coffee
• Black tea
• Green tea
• Flavored teas

I also like to have accompaniments, like:

• Packs of sugar (I grab these when I have a coffee out – just slip it into my pocket)
• Honey in small packets
• Instant milk (This is also useful for preparing meals)

A selection of herbal teas for relief of minor health dis-eases. photo © Lorraine Caputo

Medicinal Teas

If you have a serious or ongoing health problem, go to a health professional or health center. Often, pharmacies can also help prescribe the proper medication.

But for minor or occasional discomforts, it is great to have a selection of herbal teas on hand for what may ail you. In Ecuador and Peru, such teas are called agua aromática. In Bolivia, they are called mate (mate de manzanilla, mate de coca, etc.)

Some useful ones to have on hand are:

• Chamomile / Manzanilla (Matricaria recutita, Chamaemelum nobile) – for headaches, stomachaches (especially due to gas or bloating); to relax; also for menstrual cramps
• Peppermint / Menta (Mentha × piperita) – for indigestion; also soothing nerves
• Oregano / Orégano (Origanum vulgare) – for indigestion, gas; can alleviate cold symptoms and sore throat; sore muscle, toothache
• Lemon Balm / Toronjil (Melissa officinalis) – for stress, anxiety, insomnia; indigestion, nausea; menstrual cramps; headache, toothache
• Lemon Grass / Hierbaluisa (Cymbopogon citratus, Cymbopogon spp.) – for stomachache, body aches, colds
• Ginger / Jengibre, Kion (in Perú) (Zingiber officinale) – to alleviate cold symptoms and sore throat; alleviates motion sickness and seasickness (ginger candies are also good for this); a cold tea is good for burning stomach

Many of these herbs may be bought fresh in the markets.

Also ask locally – the people at the hospedaje (inn) or hostel you’re staying at, or at a local eatery or shop – about local herbal remedies that may help you. You can also check online – like here or aquí – for other common and useful herbal teas.

---

Tip:

In the Andes, mate de coca (coca tea) is a common herbal tea for relieving high altitude sickness. However, it is illegal in much of South America – or allowed only in the high-altitude regions of a country. Be informed of local laws about possession of this herb.

Also – mate de coca can cause a drug urine test to come back as positive. Be aware of this if your job back home requires you to take such tests.

---

My favorite herbs and spices. photo © Lorraine Caputo

HERBS & SPICES

There are some things that you may find always seems to get nicked out of your basket in the hostel pantry – even if the basket is clearly marked with your name and room number.

Oil is at the top of this list. It is very difficult to travel with an open container of this vital liquid. And another? As I discovered from personal experience, herbs.

I come into the kitchen to retrieve another glass of wine from my basket in the pantry. Every guest of this Buenos Aires hostel is given two baskets – one to store dry goods in the pantry and another for the fridge. There is a place to put your name and room / bunk number on the baskets.

As I walk in, two young men are preparing their dinner together.

I fill my glass with red wine and notice my bag of herbs is missing. I glance over to where the young men are and spy one of them reaching into it for some herbs.

I ask if the bag was theirs.

No.

I know, it came out of this basket, correct?

Yeah.

Well, the basket is mine. You could have come to look for me and ask for some, if you needed it.

Oh, but we aren’t stealing, really.

If you don’t mind my suggesting, why don’t you carry a small pouch of your favorite herbs and spices?

Indeed, if you have on hand a small collection of your favorite herbs and spices, you won’t be pinching from other travelers’ supplies at the hostel. One word of caution, however: Always keep these in their original pouches. This will save you from any, ahem, misunderstandings with border customs or other officials.

My standards are:

• oregano / orégano
• basil / albahaca
• chili powder / chili en polvo (Mexico, Central America), ají en polvo (South America) – Note: In Ecuador, the ají para seco is rather bland and used more for coloring.

• red pepper (chili) flakes / hojuelas de chili, hojuelas de ají
• thyme / tomillo
• rosemary / romero
• curry / curry
• black pepper / pimienta

Fresh garlic (ajo) is readily available, so you can just keep a head or two tucked into your Knapsack Pantry. Garlic is also good to use regularly, as it is a traditional natural remedy for keeping gut bugs at bay. Some travelers swear they will also make you less inviting to mosquitos and other bugs.

---

Tip:

Some of your favorite herbs and spices may be difficult (if not nigh impossible) to find in some countries, especially good quality chili powder or curry. If you find it, put it into your stash!

---

QUICK MEALS

I hit Oaxaca with a full-blown case of dengue wracking my body. My temperature soared above 39ºC. Each step I took jarred me from head to foot. Indeed, it deserves its nickname: bone-break fever.

Luckily, my hotel next-door neighbors were also seasonal Alaska workers. She was laid up with a terrific case of Montezuma’s revenge.

Her boyfriend nursed us back to health over the next few days. My stash of instant soups and bouillon cubes came in very handy to help us get through our fevers and dehydration.

An assortment of soups is also useful for adding flavor to rice or sauces. photo © Lorraine Caputo

For those times when you need to warm up – or you risk dehydration and loss or electrolytes – soups are the perfect easy meal to have. This may come in the form of:

• Packets of instant soup
• Miso
• Bouillon cubes

Bouillon cubes are available in a variety of flavors: chicken, beef, vegetables. They are good for not only making a nourishing broth or soup, but also for making sauces for heartier main dishes like stews or pastas.

Potted protein choices make quick, inexpensive meals. photo © Lorraine Caputo

The times I have had to dip into my Knapsack Pantry for a quick and easy meal … ay, such memories!

Like the time I arrived in Malacatán (Guatemala) so late at night – and no place to grab a meal …

Or being stuck in a traffic jam for eight hours in the Colombian jungle due to an accident … or in southern Peru when a huayco (rushing dry gulch river) cut off the road …

In such unforeseen circumstances, the Knapsack Pantry came to the rescue (again … and again!).

I have one can of some sort of protein tucked away for just such an emergency:

• Tuna / Atún –It is better if it is not self-opening / ring pull top can, for safety issues: The seal can break more easily than old-fashioned kind of can. This is also often available in a pouch (which, unfortunately, is not recyclable).
• Sardines / Sardina – If this will be for only one person, a small can will suffice.
• Peanut Butter / Mantaquilla de cacahuate, pasta de maní – Foreign brands are very expensive in Latin America. In Ecuador pasta de maní – pure ground peanuts with no added sugar or salt – is common. Keep it in a sealed jar in a plastic bag, to contain any seepage of oil. Also, be aware that in the tropics, peanut butter can go rancid quite quickly.
• Marmite / Vegemite – Also a great comfort food and great nutritional source. (Unfortunately, this is unavailable in Latin America.)

Some regional products you may want to try:

• Potted Meat / Carne enlatada – Tins of this is quite common in Argentina.
• Seafood / Mariscos – In Chile, all sorts of seafood is available in tins – even salmon mousse! These are wonderful for preparing pastas or even a chowder.
• Dried Mushrooms / Hongos deshidratados – Common to find in Ecuador, these are wonderful for adding to rice and pasta dishes. Put them in hot water for about 15 minutes to rehydrate them.

---

Tip: Some road favorites often come in glass containers – like marmite and honey.

But traveling with glass is not advisable. Look for products in non-breakable containers.

---

What are some of the things you have in your Knapsack Pantry?

Let us know in the comments below!

Safe Journeys … and ¡Buen provecho!

NEW PUBLICATIONS : Poetic and Travel – December Solstice 2019

Indeed, my poetry and travel writing continue to appear in journals and on websites around the world – and a new chapbook collection of my poetry!

 

Spend this December solstice browsing through the list (with links) below, poetically journeying to the U.S., Mexico, Cuba, Costa Rica, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia and Argentina – and in my new poetry chapbook, to Chile, Central and South America, Ecuador, Peru, Colombia and the Galapagos Islands.

 

In the realm of travel narrative – get the low-down on passenger trains in South America, and follow the Rebel Trail in Argentina and Bolivia, of some of the most-renowned renegades of the 20^th Century: Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid, and Che Guevara.

 

…. and until we next meet …..

 

Safe Journeys!

 

Solitary Shores in Yacila, Peru. photo © Lorraine Caputo

 

NEW LITERARY EXPRESSIONS

“Jungle Dawn” in Chiron Review (issue #116, Summer 2019)

“Flight” in the Aurorean (Fall / Winter 2019-2020)

“Spirit Suite—Étude Nº 17” in The Writer’s Café Magazine (Issue 17, “Masks,” November 2019)

“Saint Dancing” in The Raven Review (inaugural issue, November 2019)

“Rising” in Wend Poetry (Issue 2, December 2019)

“On the Wings of Crows” in River Poets Journal – theme: A Fork in the Road (Volume 13, Issue 1, 2019)

“On the Radio … Replay,” “Santa Bárbara Bendita (fragmentos),” “Solitary Shores,” “The Blind Busker” and “Fugue” – plus 2 photos in Scarlet Leaf Review (November 2019)

“Homeward” and “Midnight Navidad” in North Dakota Quarterly (issue 86.3 / 4, November 2019)

 

And … a very special edition of my eco-feminism poetry …

FIRE & WATER – Red Mare #18 (Pink House, 2019)

Limited edition – hand made

FIRE & WATER – Red Mare #18 by Lorraine Caputo (Pink House, 2019)

 

 

 

The train that makes the run from Roque Sáenz Peña to Chorotis, in Argentina’s Chaco Province. photo © Lorraine Caputo

 

NEW TRAVEL EXPRESSIONS

 

Nicole Buzzing

Riding the Rails in South America: Getting Around the Continent by Train

 

AndesTransit

The South American Trails of Butch Cassidy & the Sundance Kid, and Ernesto “Che” Guevara

 

 

If you are in need of an article for your publication or website, a translation – or your dissertation, book or article proofread / edited, please feel free to contact me. I am also available to participate in literary events.

NEW PUBLICATIONS : Poetic and Travel – September Equinox 2018

A time for repose – the desk lay bare of any projects for a while, allowing me to concentrate on preparing a new chapbook manuscript (presently under consideration by a publisher) and making poetry submissions.

And then, like the proverbial “when it rains, it pours,” projects began to come in: the translation of a story by the Ecuadorian writer Cristián Londoño Proaño; editing an article on Chinese literature; an article on Argentina.

And, indeed, my poetry and travel writing continue to appear in journals and on websites around the world. Spend the afternoon browsing through the list (with links) below, journeying to Guatemala, el Salvador, Colombia, Ecuador, Chile and other destinations between Alaska and Tierra del Fuego.

…. and until we next meet …..

Safe Journeys!

 

Flying a kite on Playa Las Machas, Arica Chile. photo © Lorraine Caputo

 

NEW LITERARY EXPRESSIONS

“The Beginnings of May” in Writing In A Woman’s Voice (5 June 2018)

“May Day 1998 – San Salvador” in Writing In A Woman’s Voice (6 June 2018)

“Night Watch” and “Mangrove” in The Writers’ Café Magazine (UK) (August 2018)

“On the Wind,” in Blue Fifth Review – Poetry Special (September 2018)

“Santiago Climes” in The Pangolin Review (Madagascar) (8 September 2018)

 

Santa Marta, Colombia. photo © Lorraine Caputo

 

NEW TRAVEL EXPRESSIONS

            AndesTransit

10 Alternative South American Destinations

 

---

 

Need of an article for your publication or website?

Or perhaps a translation?

Or your dissertation, book or article proofread / edited?

Please feel free to contact me.

I am also available to participate in literary events.